Wednesday, October 8, 2008

I went surfing on Sunday!


I've been staying at Dharma farms, but I stayed in the Hilo house for a few days.  It was nice to hang out with some of the Hilo crew.
I went surfing with Allan Yoza on Sunday.  He has spare surf boards lying around the house, and so I grabbed a leash, jumped in the back and we were on our way.  I'd seen Honoli'i before from the highway, but never been surfing.
It was a great day.  The waves were about waist high, and the sun was out with little or no wind.  There were turtles everywhere.  I caught a bunch of smaller waves on the inside, and then paddled around in the river.
We stayed for about an hour and then we headed home for grinds.  We went around the back way out of Honolii which was a really beautiful scenic route.
On the way home Allan Yoza was talking about how he surfs Hilo bay when the waves get good enough.  This is about 4 times a year.

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